-
Materials
I don’t know what material to start with. What’s the easiest?
Start with pine or plywood, they’re affordable, easy to find, and forgiving to cut. You’ll get plenty of clean practice without stressing over mistakes. Once you’re comfortable, you can move up to hardwoods like walnut, maple, or cherry.I’m not sure what size material I need. How do I know?
It depends on your machine’s cutting area and the size of the project file. In the course, I show you how to check both. Just make sure your board is big enough for the design and leaves a little space around the edges for clamps or tape. If you’re using a course file, I give you the exact size you’ll need.Why did my project warp after machining it?
Warping is usually caused by moisture. Cutting into a board can release internal tension or expose hidden moisture, causing it to bend as it adjusts.To avoid this, make sure your wood is under 10% moisture content, fully acclimated to your shop, and if possible, machined on both sides. Buying from a reputable source is worth the extra cost, it helps ensure your material is properly dried and stable.
I keep getting tearout or chipped edges. What am I doing wrong?
That usually means your bit is dull, you’re cutting too deep, or the wood isn’t supported well. Try using a downcut bit to get cleaner edges, and reduce your depth per pass. Also make sure your material is clamped securely, vibration can cause chipping too. I walk you through how to fix this inside the course.I don’t know how to secure the material. What’s the best way?
You can use blue tape and CA glue, double-sided tape, clamps, or screws, it depends on your material and your cut. Blue tape and glue gives a strong hold with no surface damage. Double-sided tape is fast and clean, and I dedicated an entire video to using it properly in the course. Clamps are great for heavy or larger pieces. Screws work well when you need something rock solid. I show you when and how to use each method step by step. -
2 Replies
-
I am trying to engrave some HDPE board but cannot locate the correct font or the correct bit to make it come out right. What am I doing wrong? I have tried bold font, not bold font, and putting a space between letters. I have used very small bits like a fishtail 1/32 up to the 1/8 v bit.
The main issue is that, like a “B”, I am clearing the pocket, and it cuts the B, but it also clears the part it should leave to read “B”.
-
Hi Joseph,
I totally get how frustrating that is, especially after trying several fonts and bits.
From what you described, the font probably isn’t the main issue. The “B” losing its center is a strong sign that the lettering is being run as a pocket toolpath rather than a V-carve engraving.
In our project workflow, lettering and engraved details are set up with a V-carve toolpath using a V-bit. Pocket toolpaths are used when the goal is to clear an entire area. A 30° V-bit works well for smaller, detailed lettering, while a 60° V-bit is commonly used for larger engraving.
Inside your design software, try this workflow:
- Select the lettering vectors.
- Create a V-carve toolpath instead of a standard pocket.
- Preview or simulate the toolpath before cutting.
- Look closely at letters such as B, A, D, O, P, and R. Their enclosed centers should remain visible in the preview.
- Test the setup on a scrap piece before running the finished board.
Changing between bold and regular fonts or adding spaces won’t correct a toolpath that is clearing the wrong area. Get the preview looking right first, then choose the V-bit angle based on the size and detail of the lettering.
Hope that helps!
Log in to reply.